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Pa amb tomàquet

The most Catalan dish there is also the simplest, which is exactly why the quality of each ingredient is non-negotiable.

How it is made

Thick bread, toasted; a ripe tomato rubbed cut-side down until the crumb is soaked; olive oil and salt applied with conviction.

When it arrives

With breakfast, under anchovies at lunch, alongside dinner: less a dish than the base layer of Catalan eating.

How to judge it

A flavourless tomato or a timid hand with the oil gives the game away instantly; when a bar gets this right, order everything else.