The vermouth hour
The Barcelona weekend runs on the aperitif, and the vermouth bar, old, tiled and unhurried, is its temple.
How it is served
From the tap, deep red and properly cold, with an orange slice, an olive and sometimes a splash from the siphon; sipping is the whole activity.
When to go
Sunday midday, standing or perched at the counter, ahead of a long lunch; Saturdays run it a close second.
What comes with it
Olives, potato crisps, tinned seafood and anchovies: the vermut counter is a small cuisine of its own.